That said, a few white grapes are well known in Piedmont. Among them are Gavi which is making a comeback, Erbaluce di Caluso making its debut and Moscato d’Asti the well known dessert wine but Arneis is the white grape variety that is on everyone’s radar.
Arneis is grown in the hills surrounding Roero, an area located in the South of Piedmont, in the Provinces of Cuneo and Asti which includes 24 villages. The area is located on the left of the Tanaro river.
The area used to be the property of one very well to do family from Asti named Roero.
Arneis became a D.O.C.G. wine in 2006 although it had long held the D.O.C. designation. This designation is only given to Italy’s top wines that are made according to strict rules.
Arneis has been translated to mean little rascal which refers essentially to the difficulty producers have in growing this variety. Despite the fact that Arneis is an ancient variety, it was first mentioned in the 1500s, it was on the verge of extinction when some Barolo producers rescued it in the 1970s. Arneis used to be used in blends with Nebbiolo to soften harsh tannins but that is no longer allowed for Barolo producers who must make their wines with 100% Nebbiolo.
At that time, people even called Arneis “Nebbiolo Bianco” although never on the label. It began to be vinified separately in the 1980s and showed its first signs of success. The variety really became a hit in the past two decades however.
When vinified on its own, Arneis presents fruit and floral aromas as well as almonds, yeast, toasty notes. It is full bodied with low acidity and low alcohol. It can be a meaty and robust grape variety which is usually fermented and aged in stainless steel sometimes with considerable lees contact thereby producing the yeasty notes. Some producers do use wood for refining the wine but this variety is not typically one to lie down or keep for longer than two to three years.
Arneis can be made into a sparkling wine or a dessert wine as well. The sparkling wine from Roero can also use the D.O.C.G. designation.
Arneis is widely available on wine lists in U.S. restaurants as well as in many retail outlets. Some of the most well known producers are Fontanafredda, Vietti, Giacosa, and Gianni Voerzio.
The wine pairs well with a variety of different dishes including local salami and cheeses, risotto and pasta dishes as well as fish and white meats. It can also be delicious with dishes that use truffles or truffle oil. One typical pairing is with the local delicacy called Friciule. These are fried sheets of dough that are served with Parma ham. Another is the Tajarin (Tagliolini) with butter and shaved bits of white truffle. A main dish that is served very often with Arneis is Vitello Tonnato. Here’s a good recipe for the dish.
Pairing with Arneis is very easy. The trouble is then trying to drink other white wines. I find myself going back to this wine very often, in all seasons and with different foods.
