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Alta Cucina >> Wine >> Lazios Bellone Bianco: A Great White Wine for an Aperitif

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Lazios Bellone Bianco: A Great White Wine for an Aperitif

Vitiviniculture or grape growing in Lazio, formerly called Latium where the capital city of Rome lies, dates back to the Etruscans, a people who preceded the Romans. Grapes flourished under the Roman Empire although what they drank is quite different in style to what we are used to drinking.

Grapes grew very well on the volcanic soils of the Castelli Romani (Roman Castles) area and were mentioned early on by the reigning poets of the day Tibullo, Orazio and Catullo as well as by Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia (Natural History).
 
The Italian grape, Bellone, hails from Lazio. This white variety is quite widespread throughout the region and is sometimes known as Archiprete, although some say that is a second clone of Bellone. Pliny the Elder called it uva fantastica (fantastic grape). Alternatively it was known as uva panepoiché, because contadini (peasants) used to drink it with their bread.
 
It is a very hardy variety that is resistant to many diseases and this is what enables it to grow throughout the region without much trouble. The grape matures somewhat late for a white variety and is quite vigorous. Green pruning is often used when trying to make quality Bellone. It grows very well in volcanic soil and is very well suited to Lazio’s soils.
 
Its’ signature aromas and flavors are white fruits such as apples and apricot. For a white wine, it is quite full bodied and if left on its lees, it takes on nutty characteristics. The wine is also suitable for aging.
Its full body makes it ideal to be paired with a tasty Roman dish like Baccala' alla Trasteverina. or Salted Cod with Anchovies, Capers and Pine Nuts.
The grape is sometimes vinified on its own but can also be found in blends such as the "Velletri Bianco". One producer who vinifies the grape on its own is Marco Carpineti, a cult figure in Roman viticultural circles. Carpineti’s wines are all certified organic, a rarity in Italy both because of the cost of certification and because traditionally producers feel they are making organic wines and don’t need to certify it.
Carpineti’s wine made with Bellone is called Collesanti and is made the town of Cori. Carpineti describes his wine as being made with Archiprete, which he says is a clonal variety of Bellone. His grapes come from a number of different plots but the most extensive one is the Collesanti hill, hence the name of the wine. This hill is 220 meters above sea level with good exposure.  
Bellone is widely grown in near the cities of Anzio, Nettuno, Velletri and can be found in the Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (D.O.C.) designated wines of Bianco Capena, Cori, Genazzano, Montecompatri-Colonna, and Velletri.
 
By Susannah Gold
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