Viticultural in Apulia has been helped along by the waves of occupiers including the Greeks, the Romans, Hannibal, Arabs, Normans, the French, the Germans and the Spanish and many other waring tribes in ancient times. Apulia was also part of various regimes including the Kingdom of Naples and that of the Two Sicilies before it became part of a Unified Italy.
Pliny spoke about the wines of Apulia stating that they weren’t without merit or glory. Under the Romans, Apulia was the provider of all wines and oil for the empire.
Thus far though, although only the Rose' wines from the Salento have really made a splash on the international market until quite recently. Primitivo di Manduria has also had its moment in the sun as has Negroamaro and Salice Salentino, a blend of indigenous varieties. The white wine grapes of Apulia have been less popular though and this is a shame.
Bianco d'Alessano is a white grape that was first documented in the area around the city of Taranto. It grows in the Valle d’Itria which extends from the provinces of Bari, Brindisi and Taranto. Apulia is quite long and has a number of different provinces including Taranto, Foggia, Bari, Brindisi and Lecce. Traditionally it has been blended with the Verdeca grape, this last has more color and adds that to the blend as well as richer aromas.
Apulia has many DOC or denominazione d'origine controllata wines but no DOCG (denominazione d’origine controllata e garantita) wines.Bianco d'Alessano is used in the wines in Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Ostuni. and Lizzano Three producers of interest are Borgo Canale, the Cantina Sociale Coop. del Locorotondo and I Pastini.
Apulia has a very long coastline and much of the cuisine, although not all,. relates to fish which works very well with the local varieties. The climate is decidedly Mediterranean and the one serious problem vines face is drought.
There are numerous indigenous varieties in Apulia but white wine grapes are not as frequent as their red counterparts. Together with Bianco d'Alessano and Verdeca, Trebbiano Toscano is quite popular.
Bianco d'Alessano is also used in the production of Vermouth.Vermouth is an aromatized liquor made from wine to which herbs are added for flavor. Most people know of the existence of Vermouth because it is a key ingredient in a Martini cocktail. Martini & Rossi is the most popular Vermouth on the market.
-Susannah Gold